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=====Notebook 1\

=====Notebook 1\4 stroke\

Thanks for any advice which will help me get off of the fence.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/2/2000:

hansenis,

I agree with H2O, Unless you plan on water skiing the 5 hp will not make that big a difference. You will probably enjoy the peace and quiet of the 4 stroke and the cleaner air you will be breathing.

Good Luck . Safe and Quiet Boating, David

=====Notebook 1\Appraisers\

The appraisers job is to state the current condition of ALL systems/functions on the boat. And perform a sea trial. They will make written recommendations as to reliable and worth.

Your insurance company and or loan company may require an written appraisal prior to insuring or underwriting a loan for the boat.

No appraiser has a crystal ball, they can only tell you the condition of this particular boat at this particular point in time. Every boat is different.

A certified marine appraiser should be knowledgeable about the various boats he or she is appraising. Most appraisers have been during this for years and generally become knowledgeable about certain problems/conditions that exist with certain manufacturers/models.

The best way to locate a knowledgeable and experience appraiser is to contact a boat insurance company and get a recommendation. Contact local marinas or a reputable boat dealer to see who they recommend. Ask the appraiser lots of questions, asked if he is familar with the model boat you are looking at. Ask for a list of recent appraisals and see if the customers were happy with him.

Most important, after asking questions and you don't feel confidant with the appraiser. In other words if he gives you vague or confusing answers, this is not the person you want to hire.

As for particular model/years of boats, you will generally find the Sea Rays to be in better built and in better condition.

Building a boat is like building a house. You can hide a multitude of sins after you put the walls up. It's what you don't see that later comes back to bite you.

Let me know how this works out...Good luck and safe boating....David

Hi, thank you for your previous answer, I now have one more. I have found the boat I want, a 89 27 ft Searay at a fair price. Here is my delemma. I live in NH and the boat is in Rochester NY. My idea is to find a survayer in that area to go over to the guys house and call me with the report. If it is favorable I will arrange to have it picked up. ( 8 hour drive )although I know what this model looks like I will be buying it sight unseen. Is this the proper way to proceed ?

Thanks Dean

bmarlin475 gave this response on 6/2/2001:

Dear Dean,

My questions are ...Is he a certified marine suryayer? Ask for references and check them. Will he provide you with a signed written report?

Several things need to be checked unless you are buying this "AS IS WHERE IS". Systems checked (fuel and electrical in particular), structral integity(checked for rot in stringers,flooring),checked for Hull damage and blistering, Engine Checked (Compression Check ) Lower Drive unit pressured check. And most important a water Demo.

I am a little leery of buying anything sight unseen, unless I know who is doing the evalution. Remember BUYER BEWARE.

Good luck and let me know how this works out...David

=====Notebook 1\auto engine\

19:09 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I need to know if there are any compatible auto engines that could be used in place of a 1987 mercruiser 3.0 litre 181 cid 4cyl.inboard.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/2/2000:

tfarrar, this question is a bit out of my general scope of knowledge.

Some of those inboard 3.0's were fresh water cooled. And because they had alumimun heads and the cast iron manifolds, this caused all kind of problems ( Not one of MerCruiser finest accomplishments)

I suggest that you contact expert: WWW8

(he has over 25 years experience is marine engines) or try posting a message on www.boatdoctor.com/

Safe Boating... David

I was wondering what all I will need to change to make a car engine work in a boat. I currently have a 17' Sylvan I/O with a 4.3L GM motor. The problem is a cracked block. The cheapest "Marine" block I can find is $700. I did however find a complete 4.3L Vortec engine with a 4-barrel carb and a high rise intake on it for half that price. The Block numbers are the same except for the 4 barrel. What can I do to make this engine work in my boat? Any info at all would be most helpfull. Thank You in advance.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 6/2/2000:

There is nothing wrong with using a automotive short block. *PLEASE NOTE*; The Short Block only. The differences are primarily internal. The blocks are the same. The cam profile is different. (different torque curve than automotive) It is designed to provide both low end and high end performance. WOT(wide open throttle) for a V6 Carb engines typically is in the 3800 to 4300 RPM, EFI's in the 4300 to 4800,depending on how the boat is proped. you can use the automotive camshaft but expect some performance loss. Make sure you use marine head gaskets and that all the freeze plugs are brass. To save problems down the road use stainless bolts on the oit pan cover **AND MOST IMPORTANT** that you use all marine periferals (carb, alternator, distributor, fuel pump. water pump, starter. wiring systems,etc) or you are asking for an explosion.

Safe boating....David

=====Notebook 1\bad fuel\

18:52 Sunday, November 03, 2002

First I would check the fuel, you might have a bad batch. This is easy to do, Pull the fuel strainer and empty into a glass jar. What you are looking for is water. It will settle in the bottom of the glass. If it is, you will have to siphon the water out of the tank. You will need to put a fresh fuel filter on and may have to empty it a couple of times until all the water is out of the system. After getting all the water out you might add Water Zorb to the fuel tank to help remove any residual water that might remain.

If this is not the reason for the poor preformance please take it to a certified MerCruiser tech, He can easliy access the problem and fix it.

Hope this helps. Good luck and Safe Boating....David

rsiejkowski rated this answer:

bmarlin475 gave this follow-up answer on 7/27/2000:

Talked to the Mercruiser Service techs, they wanted to know number of hours since tune up. They suggested checking all plug wires to make sure they are seated properly. if this is not the problem pull your back spark plugs and take a look at them to see what condition they are in. Unless someone has adjusted the carb, this should not be the problem. A simple tune up may be all that required. David

=====Notebook 1\banannas\

17:33 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Anyone know why bananas are considered bad luck on fishing boats? I havn't been able to make sense of it ...

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/27/2001:

Dear Capt,

I've heard this supertition on fishing boats for over 40 years, and still don't know it source or exact meaning. I've always thought it had do with either being a slow boat, slippery banana peels on deck or the chance encounter with an enomomous tarnatula.

I ran this on by a commercial scalloper, he had never heard this on, but he doesn't allow black bags on board,whistling on board(something to do with blowing up the wind) and never sails on Fridays.

So never wanting to buck tradition, I will never again whistle on board while carrying bananas in a black bag on Friday.

Good luck, horseshoe and a 4 leaf clover...David

=====Notebook 1\Bayliners\

16:42 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Building a boat is like building a house, you can hide a multitude of sins when you put the wall up. It what you don't see that later comes back to haunt you.

The Bayliner is a price point boat. It's cheaper than some other brands because of not what they put into it when they built it, but rather what they left out. Floors are wood(covered in carpet), which may not be encapsulated in fiberglass. Is there any soft spots in the floor?

Check the transom to make sure it hasn't started to separate or rotted. Check for cracks in the fiberglass. They use cheaper foams and vinyls on the seats which may all ready started to deterioate or need to be replaced.

In comparing these 3 boats look to see what has held up and what has failed. Considering that in a couple of years the 96 will look like the 92 as far as condition.

Also look at Nadaguides.com to compare resale values. Hope this helps...Good luck...David

Hi , I am considering a used 27 ft boat with a single 260 volvo engine and out drive. the outdrive is a twin prop set up and the unit has 750 hrs on it. Everyone I talk to has a different opinion as to this set up. Is it OK and is 750 a lot of hours ? the boat is a 1985 bayliner that has always been properly serviced

Thanks Marion

.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 10/10/2000:

Dinows,

Although I am not a big fan of Bayliners, if the engine and drive have been properly maintained it should be alright for the time being. With 750 hours you could be looking at a total rebuild or replacement in a few hundred hours. The shelf life of most I/O's iis appox 1000 to 1200 hours.Some more, some less.

Questions to ask are:

Has tthe boat been used in saltwater?

Have the exhaust manifolds and risers been replaced? When?

If possible have an motor compression check and pressure check lower unit.

Was the motor winterized on regular basis? Are there service records to verify maintence and or problems with the boat.

The Volvo setup is a reliable rig. Parts can sometimes be difficult to get and expensive to service. But I have friends that swear by them. I 'm partial to MerCruisers.

To each is own.

Hope this helps. Good luck and safe boating...David

looking at a 1986 bayliner capri 16ft w/85 hp. good shape except the vinyl upholsery is virtually trash. is it worth 2500 with a trailer?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 10/4/2000:

Dear Shortblock,

Not only is this a 14 year old boat, it a 14 year old Bayliner. This 1650 Capri with the 85 hp outboard and trailer was a price point package deal. Just remember wood floor, wood stringers, wood seat bases and wood transom (equates to potential or existing rot).

Current NADA rates this from a low of $1980 to a high of $2800. Avg retail of $2410. Just remember "Asking and Getting are two diffenrent things, but if you don't ask you don't get."

You could start at $2500 and start subtracting the cost of repairs. Upholsery and seats appox $750 to $1000, If canvas needs to be replaced $250 to $500. Gel coat repairs. Get the idea. You're probably end up somewhere in the $1200 to $1400. You could suggest that you would be glad to pay his asking price if he fixes all the things on the boat. He will probably be willing to take a lower price.

If you are purchasing the boat "as is condition", I would probably cap out at $1800 to $2000. But you will have to ask your self, "What is it worth to me?."

Good luck...david

=====Notebook 1\boat operator liscense\

16:56 Sunday, November 03, 2002

My husband and I are in the midst of purchasing a NITRO 188 fishing/waterskiing boat. We have never owned a boat before and was wondering if my husband (since he would be the driver of the boat) would need to take a course in order to get a boat license... specifically, do you need a special boat operator's license (like you do a drivers license) in order to take your boat out on the bay, etc. We keep getting conflicting information....

bmarlin475 gave this response on 4/23/2002:

Although a few states now require a boat operators license, I would suggest contacting the local Coast Guard Auxillary or US Power Squadron (they assist the Coast Guard in training and safety inspections) about current laws regarding boating requirements in your state or area.

This is a great course and I highly suggest and recommend that you both take it. It covers a wide range of topics such as: rules of the road, boating safety, boat handling, trailering, and navigation.

And in most cases it will save you money by giving you a discount on your boat insurance.

If you want a preview, you can take an online course at boatus.com/

A local marina, tackle shop or boat dealer should be able to put you in touch with either the Auxillary or Power Squadron.

Hope this helps...Good luck and safe boating......David

=====Notebook 1\book values\

16:48 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I recently talked to a yacht person and related the price of a used boat thatI had gotten from the blue book of boat prices.I was told that

dealers here(Wa State)go by another book,gives retail and wholesale prices,also said that here

boats were 10-15%higher.What is this other book and is it available online?

Thanks

Ed

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/15/2002:

Dear Ed,

Your friend is probably referring to BUC Book values. Most banks,lending institutions and insurance firms normally refer to NADA for loan values and boat valves.

You can log on to: www.bucvalues.com/ and sign up to receive quotes on boat pricing. Most yacht brokers will quote BUC pricing. Most buyers will pay NADA.

Hope this helps.... David

where can i find blue book prices on power boats

bmarlin475 gave this response on 3/28/2001:

Dear bcity,

Try these two sources NADA and BUC. Just remember that they are guides only, market conditions (location, demand, condition and season) dicate price.

http://www,nadaguides.com/

http://www.bucvalues.com/

Good luck and safe boating...David.

=====Notebook 1\Bravo\

19:16 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Hi, I am considering the purchase of a SeaRay 24DA. I currently own a SeaRay 215EC and am looking to move up a notch. I can't get a stright answer regarding the benifits of the Bravo III drive vs. the Bravo II drive. Regardless of the drive, I'll go with the 5.7 EFI engine, but other than "about 1 mile per hour" at top speed, I can't get any other info on the the advanage, handling characteristics, etc. to make a decision if the extra cost is worth it for this boat. Can you shead any light on the topic? Thanks.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 6/23/2000:

Lets see if can sort this out for you. The new SeaRay 240DA (Sundancer) is a great boat not only in overall styling but with major product improvements over the previous 1999 240DA. It also gained a little weigh. It went from a dry weight of 4300 to appox 5500 lbs,

MerCruiser offers four outdrives for SeaRays; the Alpha Gen II, Bravo I,II,& III.

The Alpha is the standard outdrive on the sport boats up to 21 foot. It's an all economical all purpose drive. Great out of the hole preformance and deliver good top end. It's light weigh but sturdy, handling horsepowers up to 260 php (prop rated horsepower).

The Bravo series is a heavier duty outdrive (thicker shafts & bigger gears). The Bravo I is esigned for high performance boats with higher horsepowers engines, (slim design allows for higher transom mounting) less drag more speed.

The Bravo II for heavier cruisers, big beefy drive with big diamenter aluminum prop meant to get heavy cruisers up and moving very quickly.

The Bravo III, offers both great out of the hole and top end performance, It's true tracking (no bow hunting -dual counter rotating stainless props) plus the added bonus of true backing make this drive an all aroung favorite. Where ever you point this drive the boat is going to follow.

My opinion is to go with either the (1st choice) 5.7L. EFI (260php) w/Bravo III or (2nd) the 5.0L. EFI (240php) w/ Bravo III. This is based soley upon looking toward future resale or trade value. The larger engine package will make for an easier resale. With only 20 horsepower difference in the two engine packages they share the same fuel consumption, the same weight, the same engine (difference bore). And probably only 1 to 2 mph difference at cruising speed. But about $1500 to $2000 difference in current retail.

Hope this is some help. Thanks for the question and good luck on your next SeaRay purchase. Safe Boating...David.

=====Notebook 1\Buying a used boat\

17:00 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I am interested in buying a used pleasure boat. Is there a sight on the web that lists boats for sale in my area? (Missouri)

bmarlin475 gave this response on 10/1/2000:

Their are plenty of sites but give this one a try Used Boats Network. I logged on just and just sampling boats back to 1986 in Missouri, I had 29 hits. Ranging from bass boats to high performance boats. Their site is http://www.usedboatnetwork.com/

Good luck and happy surfing....David

bmarlin475 gave this follow-up answer on 10/1/2000:

Another worthy site is boat trader online that search from 1989 to 1999 produced 200 ads. Log on to http://www.boattraderonline.com/

Hope this helps...David

I intend to buy a boat soon and would like to find a "Blue Book" of boat selling prices and relevant information. I may buy new or used depending on what is available and pricing. Where can I get this information?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/6/2000:

NADA list retail pricing (High,Average and Low retail, you can access 5 values daily) are more in line with actual prices than BUC Book. BUC generally sets pricing by take a fix depreciation each year. Not based on dealer resales.

But keep in mind one thing, this is a guide only (the book has never bought or sold a boat). Supply and demand sets boat prices.

Imagine what a fully rigged offshore sportfishing boat for sale in Arizona or a trick out WakeBoarding Boat on the east coast, where canyon running rules, is worth.

There is an old saying when it comes to buying or selling a boat "Asking and getting are two different things, but if you don't ask you don't get".

NADA can be reached at http://www.nadaguides.com/

Good Luck and safe boating....David

Anonymous rated this answer:

Anonymous asked this follow-up question on 9/7/2000:

Where do you think it is best to buy a used boar - a private owner or a boat dealer?

Also is thera best time of year to buy and what should I look for when buying a used boat?.

That's a lot tto ask but I am pretty ignorant on this subject and would like to avoid majot mistakes.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/7/2000:

When buying preowned remember this "Let the buyer beware." When buying from a reliable dealer you have a certain amount of recourse and the dealer will generally stand behind what he sell.

What a preowned boat is worth is total dependant on several factors.

(1) Is there dealer support for this brand of boat in the area?.ie; (Are they sill being sold?)

(2)The number and type of preowned boats( fishing ,ski or pontoon) on the market.(Are there a lot of boats for sale or just a few)?

(3)Market Demand (Are there more buyers than boats available) and Time of Year ( Is it the beginning of the boating season or the end of the season?)( what are you looking for fishing or skiing?) Generally fishing boats sell best in the spring and fall. Ski boats in the summer.

(4) Condition of the preowned boat.

(5) Final and probably the most important question: What is it worth to you?

LESSON ONE in Boat Buying 101. "Asking and getting are two different things."

LESSON TWO have a certified engine mechanic (if purchasing from a private owner) go over the engine if possible. Inspect the hull for signs of damage.

Check the floor for soft or spongy spots (rot or separation of wood floor. Look at overall condition of the boat, if it's showing signs of a lot of wear and tear assume the motor is probably in the same condition.

***IMPORTANT***: If purchasing from a dealer write the contract contigent on these three items:

(a) Compression check of motor

(b) Pressure check lower unit

(c) Subject to a water demo. If he balks at any of these items WALK AWAY you don't want to purchase this boat. There is alway another boat.

LESSON THREE Make an reasonable offer and be prepared to buy the boat..

Hope this is some help. Thank for your question..Safe boating., David

When buying a used boat, how do you know if you are getting a good boat or someone eleves nightmare?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 3/4/2002:

Dear Anonymous,

Very good question.

When buying preowned remember this "Let the buyer beware." When buying from a reliable dealer you have a certain amount of recourse and the dealer will generally stand behind what he sell.

What a preowned boat is worth is total dependant on several factors.

(1) Is there dealer support for this brand of boat in the area?.ie; (Are they sill being sold?)

(2)The number and type of preowned boats( fishing ,ski or pontoon) on the market.(Are there a lot of boats for sale or just a few)?

(3)Market Demand (Are there more buyers than boats available) and Time of Year ( Is it the beginning of the boating season or the end of the season?)( what are you looking for fishing or skiing?) Generally fishing boats sell best in the spring and fall. Ski boats in the summer.

(4) Condition of the preowned boat.

(5) Final and probably the most important question: What is it worth to you?

LESSON ONE in Boat Buying 101. "Asking and getting are two different things."

LESSON TWO have a certified engine mechanic (if purchasing from a private owner) go over the engine if possible. Inspect the hull for signs of damage.

Check the floor for soft or spongy spots (rot or separation of wood floor. Look at overall condition of the boat, if it's showing signs of a lot of wear and tear assume the motor is probably in the same condition.

***IMPORTANT***: If purchasing from a dealer write the contract contigent on these three items:

(a) Compression check of motor

(b) Pressure check lower unit

(c) Subject to a water demo. If he balks at any of these items WALK AWAY you don't want to purchase this boat. There is alway another boat.

LESSON THREE Make an reasonable offer and be prepared to buy the boat..

Hope this is some help. Thank for your question..Safe boating., David

=====Notebook 1\carbon fiber\

17:07 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I read something about boats being made out of carbon fiber I was wondering what is the strongest material that could be used for boats? bmarlin475 gave this response on 12/11/2001:

Dear bigdbmul,

Carbon fibers and kelvar are used in boat building as a composite material. These light weight materials are very flexible but obtains their strength by being cored or sandwiched with other materials such as balsa, foam, wood and being encapulilated by various layers of knitted and layered fiberglass and exposy resins. The reason for coring is obtain strength and flexibility(Fishing rods such as Shakespears' Ugly Stik) without adding excess weight.

Kelvar and carbon fiber are very expensive materials and are only used in high stress or impact areas. To build an entire boat out of this materials would be extremely expensive. You will find them used primarily cored with fiberglass in kayaks and canoes construction. High performance boats will use kelvar in some areas of the keel and carbon fiber where some flexibility is required.

To answer your question, Wood and wood laminates is by far the strongest material and the most perferred in boat building, but it comes with inherit problems. Excessive weight, water absorbtion, and rot over time to name a few problems, and consumers have been taught that wood is bad in boats.

Hope this answers your question....Good luck and safe boating....David

=====Notebook 1\Chris Crafts\

18:22 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Looking for web sites that will help us restore an antique Chris Craft. We want step by step instructions (with pictures) on restoring antique boats such as replacing planks and doing decking and any other information that might be helpful to us.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/9/2000:

Quickrelease, the best two sources for Chris Craft are the following.

For parts and accessories try Spencer Boats Boatworks they also recondition and sell restored ChrisCrafts. Log on to their site at:

http://www.antiqueandclassicboats.com/boatbuilding.html

You can also contact Jerry Conrad, he is the Chris Craft Archivist at the Mariners Museum in Newport News, Virginia. He should be an invaluable source for info.The Museum's toll free is (800)565-6846.

Good luck and safe boating...David

=====Notebook 1\cigarette boats\

19:27 Sunday, November 03, 2002

How did cigarette boats get their name?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 6/1/2000:

Actually Cigarette is the brand name of one of the first highly successful offshore ocean racers, the name has know become associated with fast racing boats. According to The Cigarette Racing Team who manufacture Cigarette Boats (The America's Offshore Racing Legend) "these legendary racing boats are so long and narrow they remind people of smoking materials,and the recognition of the name by the general public is so great that they often mistakenly refer to all racing boat in the class as cigarettes." If you interested in the history of these boats, you can find a colorful history of Don Aronow the chief architect and designer of some of the most successful high performance boats, Formula, Cigarette, Donzi to name a few.The book is titled "Don Aronow-The King of Thunderboat Row" by Micheal Aronow. Thanks for your question......safe boating, David.

=====Notebook 1\credit\

18:56 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I am interested in buying a boat,however almost 7 years ago I was forced into bankruptcy. I had great credit before and have been rebuilding ever since. Would you know of any good places for me to go for financing?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/24/2000:

Doutback, A typically bankruptcy info will stay on a credit report for 9.9 years before it is removed. Unfortunately boats are considered a luxury puchase, in other words no one needs one (it's not a necessity). But if you have had clean credit since the bankruptcy all is not lost.

Hopefully you have established a banking relationship with a local bank or credit union. If you haven't you need to start.

If you have, talk with the loan officer or manager to see how much you will be able to borrow. Be honest and ask them for their help. Having a substancial downpayment and a good payment record since the bankruptcy will also be a major plus.

You may have to look at the preowned market instead of new.

Also check with the local boat dealers. Tell them your sitiation up front, They will try to work with you. Some may carry in house financing or have credit sources that may carry C or D paper (generally this is full recourse loans, the dealer is guaranteeing the loan against default). You will need to ask these questions up front. Don't allow a dealer to shot gun your credit appt to 10 or 12 sources. This will just complicate things and put multiple credit (flags) inquiries on your credit report. It may take 6 to 12 months before they are removed. This could prevent you from optaining credit for other purposes.

I wish you good luck. Hope this works out for you. Safe Boating...David

=====Notebook 1\cruiser choices\

17:21 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I am going to be buying a cruiser style boat for the first time. I am looking at a 1993 Rinker 260 with a 5.7 L engine and also a 1993 Bayliner 2655 with a 5.0L The Rinker has a 8'6" beam and a dry wieght of 5675 with the 5.7 The Bayliner is 8' beam and and dry wieght of 4200 lb.Can anyone comment on either boat as far as performance and overall quality of either boat.Two of the other boats in my price range are a 95 2655 and a 93 2755. The 95 only has a 5.0L( I'm told this is a poor engine choice) but outwieghts the 93 2655 by 1000 lbs( also wider beam 8'6") The 2755 has the 7.4L with I have heard will increase my fuel consumption by a couple gals an hour. Is the big block worth the extra fuel, I'm up in Canada and paying over $3 a gal.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/11/2001:

Dear kbradatzke,

Both boat were built using similar construction techigues and materials, hence the similarity in resale prices.

The vinyls and canvas are probably due for replacemant. The Rinker is an easier boat to resale over the Bayliner.

Although I am not a fan or either Bayliner or Rinker, any one of these boats will ride better with the 8'6" beam. The 8' beam boat will be tender handling in a sea way. These boats will need trim tabs. If you buy the 2755 go with the 7.4L, if will be worth the extra 2 to 3 gals per hour.

Good luck and safe boating...David

I am looking at purchasing a suncrusier boat. I of the ones I am looking at is a 1995 2655 with a 5.0 L engine ,the other is the 1993 2655. Does anyone have any comments on the performance of either boat.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/10/2001:

Dear kbradatzke,

My personal experience with

US Marine/Bayliner is this particular boat with the 5.0L is way under powered. And if you are looking for any preformance, you won't be a happy camper.

Loaded down with fuel, water, personal gear, and 2 to 4 persons on board, this boat will be sloooow to plane and will be struggling to stay on plane in any type of sea conditions. Minimum power should be the 5.7LX (appox 250 to 260hp). You are way better off if you can find one with the 7.4L (this may be a rarity)with a Bravo drive behind it).

Good luck and safe boating....David

I am looking to buy a ski/fishing boat and I am considering a Bayliner with a 135 hp. I am 6'1'' and weigh about 230 lbs., and I was wondering if this boat is going to be able to pull me up out of the water or if I should upgrade the engine. There is about a $4000.00 difference between this model and the next one up so I would like to stick with this one if it will do the job, but I have limited skiing experience and I don't want to have to trust what the boat dealer says. I would appreciate any advice with this.

btw, The boat weighs 2019 lbs..

Thanks!

David

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/17/2001:

Dear David.

If the 135HP you are referring to is the 135 Mercury outboard you are AOK, as far as out of the hole and overall boat performance. If this is the 3.0L MerCruiser I/O (135HP) with your weight and size you will be much happier with the 4.3L(V6-190HP).

The 3.0L can pull you up but it will feel like you are being blasted with a fire hose in your face and you will struggle to get up. The 4.3L will pop you right out of the water.

Hope this helps.....Good Luck.....

David

I want to purchase a cruiser type power boat in the 26' to 29' range. I say cruiser only in that it differs from a cuddy cabin and has a full head and galley. Does any one have experience with boats from Sea Ray- Crownline-Cobalt?? What are the pros and cons on size- will be trailering and need one that easily accomodates trailering. prefer one with volvo outboard with duo props

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/16/2001:

Dear jmt17,

Of the three boats you mention, Sea Ray and Cobalt are at the top of the list are far as the highest quality construction and resale value. (Always keep an eye toward future resale.) Of these two, Sea Ray has more product line to offer customers and higher market share.

In most states the max towing width is 8'6". In most product lines this is generally achieved at 26 foot.

As far as outdrives go, having owned both, The MerCruiser is much easier to obtain parts and service. Again market share, MerCruiser dominates with appox 75 to 80%. Translation: More demand -easier resale.

Hope this helps. Good luck and safe boating...David

jmt17 asked this follow-up question on 7/16/2001:

bmarlin475:

thank you for your quick response. I have found that quality translates to $$$ with the Cobalt at the top of the heap and Sea Ray behind with Crownline under Sea Ray. This is my first go with a boat of this size which will have the accomodations for my wife. AS in a home purchase I always think resale then buy. I also promised myself I would never buy a "new off the lot" boat or car! Since my last email I was able to obtain a great deal on a 2002 26' cruiser from Crownline- boat, all the pertinent options, trailer, and elec winch for $53K. I spent the night looking througn online boat sales- and any 2000 is in the range of $43K for a Crownline; Sea Rauy higher and so on.ANOTHER QUESTION- how do you feel about this offer vis-a vis going used for $10K under? Sea Ray for the same thing- and not liked by my wife- is $72K, -Cobalt has to be $20K more. I would like to get something for around $30K, but that translates to age!

Thanks- John

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/16/2001:

The reason for buying new is warranties, service and latest and greatest in technology.

Actually preowned Sea Ray up to six years of age(currently 1995)can be certified by a Sea Ray Dealer and sold with up to three years warranty. If you are currently shopping more price than product, comparable product to tCrownline look at Chapparral, Wellcraft, Rinker and Maxum. David

jmt17 asked this follow-up question on 7/17/2001:

David,

You will be pleased to hear I have just purchased a new 240 Sea Ray Sundancer (forgot if they make a 250 ! ) I chose the 24' becuase I understand it is easier on the tow vehicle and for towing- as compared with the 26'. I chose the Sea Ray based on your excellent comments- thank you John

While on vacation I saw a Yacht named IROQUOIS which I believe is made by Crescent and would like to know the value, size and any info you are kind enough to provide. Thanks in advance

bmarlin475 gave this response on 4/19/2001:

Dear littleugly,

I checked several of my sources and was not able to locate this one particular yacht, although this yacht sounds familar. You might try contacting Crecsent Custom Yachts directly.

Crescent Custom Yachts is a world-renowned builder of custom luxury megayachts. Clients from around the world have discovered Crescent's international reputation for excellence in design, operation and reliability.

Located in the Vancouver area at the mouth of the Fraser River, Crescent Custom Yachts has recently moved into a new state-of-the-art 45,000 square foot facility on a 17-acre site. Crescent's team of professionals combine their individual talents to produce a level of craftsmanship and attention to detail that is of utmost importance.

Each vessel is built to the highest of standards. Crescent is one of the few shipyards in the world to have created a variety of custom megayachts built to the demanding standards of ABS, Bureau Veritas and French Affaire'Maritime. It is said that Crescent's engineering and mechanical systems have far surpassed these high standards.

Currently, five yachts are under construction ranging from 92' to 121'. Future plans include yachts up to the 150' range.

Crescent Custom Yachts Inc.

11580 Mitchell Road

Richmond, British Columbia

Canada, V6V 1T7

Tel: (604) 301-3900 Fax: (604) 301-3901

http://www.crescentcustomyachts.com/

Good luck...David

Please name the best boats (in your opinion) in each of the several categories starting with jon boats, flats boats,bass boats,center consoles, off shore fisherman,cuddy cabins, sport cruisers, etc.

Thank you,

RLD

bmarlin475 gave this response on 4/9/2001:

Dear Robdey,

Boy, this is a loaded question. In my opinion,(for whats that worth) based on my experiences with certain boats,partically offshore,fishing,high preformance and cruising boats. I will have to pass on jon,flats, and bass boats. Here is my shopping list.

Center Console- 23 Sea Craft, 225 & 247 Edgewater, Mako,

Offshore Fishing- Albermarle, any Cabo, Striker and Orca

Custom Built Offshore- Buddy Davis, Hines-Farley, Gwaltney

Cuddy Cabin- Sea Ray 225EC and 245WE

Sport Cruisers- Sea Ray 260 to 340 Sundancer

High Performance- Formula

Thanks for the question. Good luck and safe boating....David

My husband and I are looking to purchase a new boat(first time boat owners and a family of 5). We were interested in the Ebbtide 2400 mystique dual console or the Sea Ray 210SD. We are steering towards the Sea Ray because it is a local dealer and of its high rating. The Ebbtide was very appealing and we are still considering it, but the dealer is 1 1/2 hrs away via the bay.

We are located on a lagoon front property purchased a year ago and we just had an extreme low tide. The dock area, where our boat would be was six inches of water with no water under the dock. The winter months you see alot of extreme low tides. In the summer months the tide seems to be around 15" to 28" near the dock and at least 3 1/2 to 4 feet in the middle of the lagoon. I am concerned about the Deep V of the Sea Ray which has a draft of 37" stern drive down and a deadrise of 21 degrees.

The Ebbtide has a Draft of 32" and deadrise of 16 degrees and is a Mid V hull. We were told by this particular salesman that the stern would need to be 3/4 raised in this depth.

They are both priced approx. the same with the difference of the engines. Ebbtide 5.0 EFI 240 HP and the Sea Ray 5.7 EFI 260 HP both with Aluminum props.

Which boat would be appropriate for our lagoon depth or should we consider another brand altogether?

The other question is, which is better a 16 degree deadrise or 21 degree. Both boats have a beam of 8'6". Ebbtide LOA 23'8" and Sea Ray LOA 21'0"?

Your prompt response is appreciated. We are looking to make a purchase by the end of the month.

Regards,

Lynda

bmarlin475 gave this response on 2/19/2001:

Dear Lynda,

With either boat in extreme low water they will be sitting on the bottom.

The Sea Ray with drive unit up will draft 18 inches.

Both of these boats with MerCruiser EFI engines, stainless props are standard.

The Sea Ray 210SD measures 21 degree deadrise at the transom with a six strake running hull.(This boat will ride like it is riding on a monorail and will turn on a dime with no ventilation of the prop or backing off plane). The 210 Sundeck will deliver a better handling, a drier, smoother and softer riding boat in a rough water than the Ebbtide. Performance wise and overall fit and finish on the Sea Ray are unbeatable.

Also with the Sea Ray Reward Certificate this is a great time to buy. $1000 on this boat.

Hope this helps. Good Luck and Safe Boating.

David

Hi, I have been looking for a boat purchase for about a year now and I kind of liked the Searays and Bayliners in the 1986 to 1989 range> A couple of people who have knowledge of boats have told me that dispite the nice lines of the Bayliners they are a "hunk of junk"

Although I still like the Searays I have looked at a couple of boats manufactured by Cruisers Inc.and I really like the style and added room at the transom. Could you tell me if this is a good boat overall or a peice of crap like the Bayliner ?

Thanks Dino

bmarlin475 gave this response on 2/6/2001:

Dino,

Cruisers, Inc.have done a fair job of chasing(copying) the rabbit(i.e.Sea Ray). But the rabbit is two to three years ahead of everyone when it come to design and construction technology. Other boats compared are considerably cheaper. They are cheaper for a reason. It's what Sea Ray puts in their boats that other manufacturers leave out. Which translates to durability, and to added resale value.

Sea Ray are so well built that a six year old boat can be certified up to three year. No other manufacturer offers this on their preowned boat.

Currently Sea Ray's Market share is number one with 16.1% of all new boats sold over 30 ft. Bayliner is second with 7.3%, Carver is third at 4.2%. Maxum is forth at 3.2%. Cruisers is fifth at 3.1%.

In preoowned Sea Ray commands 10.7% (#1)of all boats over 30ft. The next closest manufacturer is Chris Craft(2) at 4.6%. Cruisers doesn't even appear in the top ten of preowned.

The best advise that I can give you is to "Walk the Docks" look at as many used boats as possible and talk to their owners. They will gladly tell you what they like or dislike about their boats. And it will give you a good insight to what product hold up and what falls apart.

Hope this is some help. Good luck and happy hunting....David

I am currently looking for a cabin boat anywhere from 21 to 27ft, used, under $6000. I have actually found plenty to choose from. However, as I began to read into some I came across a few questions that I hope that someone can answer.

To get right to them:

**I have seen boats from 1975-1995. How old is really old for boats?? How far back should I look?

**What is the largest that I can trailer?

**A rough ballpark, what are the expenses in a year for that kind of boat?

**Roughly, how much gas does a boat burn and how do i calculate that?

**Some listings mention "FF"?

**What should I check when looking at the boat? (I've looked at a boat past and had it surveyed, I did that for a 36ftr. I really dont want that expense for <26ft.)

**When they say rebuilt. What are the items that I should make sure were rebuilt?

**Is there a minimum horsepower for that size range that I should be aware of?

**Some say they have maintenance records. What type of maintenance should i look for?

Pointers and cautions are aleays welcome as well.

Thanks

Rob

bmarlin475 gave this response on 1/1/2001:

Dear Rob,

I just got back from vacation sorry I couldn't answer your questions sooner.

You got some really good questions.

First how old the boat is is really more dependent on the Make/Manufacturer than the age of the craft. If a builder used cheap materials to build with you will end up with a cheap boat that will not hold up in the long run. Also alot of material and construction techiques have changed in the last few years. My personal preference would be not older than 10 to 12 years. But alot could depend on how mechanically inclined you are.

On trailering a boat what you can tow is dependent on your vehicle. Most states legal limit is 8 ft 6 in width. Most boats in the 21 to 27 fool range will weigh out appox 3000 to 6500 lbs.

Expenses for an older boat can be really difficult to fiqure. You could be looking in the near future for either motor/outdrive rebuild or replacement .$3500 to 7000. Not to mention electical or fuel system components that either wear out or need to be replaced.

Trying to fiqure fuel consumption is based on several different factors such as hull design,water line length,weight, deadrise, engine configuration. Generallly most 4.3L (V6) 7 to 11 gals per hour(gph) 5.7's(350 -V8) eat 9 to12 gph, 7.4L's(454-V8) 13 to 16 gph.

Off hand I have no idea what "FF" means.

I would have to see in what context it was used.

Ck fuel systems (hoses clamps. fuel cell) you are looking for deteriation, corosion, leaks)

Compression check motor.

Pressure check lower unit.

Electrical systems/ wiring is it nice and tidy or does it look like spagetti(a mickey mouse wiring job).

Check floors and stringers for rot/ delamination. Deck hardware for corosion.

Rebuilt can mean a lot of different thing. Was it completely overhauled? By a marine shop/Mechanic? What was replaced? Were starter, fuel pump, water pump, oil pump, alternator, carb replaced or rebuilt? If possible ask to see service order, it should list all work performed and parts replaced. Was the drive unit rebuilt? Upper and lower gear units? Impelller replaced?

21 to 24 foot you want (V-8 )5.7L power

25 to 27 foot go with single 7.4L power or twinV6's. You won't be under powered.

Look at all the service records that you can get your hands on. This will tell you alot of how well the boat was maintained or lack of. Oil changes, equipment failures, winterizations,,,etc.

Just remember "Let the buyer beware" Hope this helps. Good luck and safe boating....David

Need a boat to run up and down the intercoastal around Clearwater, FL. Are deck boats ok for this. Which is the best?

Thanks, Jim Evans

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/29/2000:

Jim, the deck boats are perfect of this type of boating. Having owned a wide variety of boats from different manufacturers, I

believe in buying the highest quality boat. It will cost you less in the long run.

There is an old eskimo saying " If you aren't the lead dog, the scenery never changes"

Sea Ray is the lead dog. As far as design, engineering and new product development, no one even comes close to Sea Ray. They are the most copied boat company in the world.( I believe in the product so much, I sell them)

Take a look at Sea Ray's (8passenger) 190 SunDeck, 210SD (10 passenger) and 240SD(12 passenger). You can preview their boats at http://www.searay.com/ or locate the closest Sea Ray dealer to you.

Hope this helps. Good luck and safe boating...David

Looking at purchasing a used Grady-White (97) Adventure 208 w/ a 200 Yamaha. The asking price is

$29,000 w trailer, elec, some options. I plan on taking friends and family fishing up to 20 miles into the Gulf of Mexico. There is a 2.5 year warrenty on the motor.

1 - Is a Grady-White that superior to a Aquasport or Proline. Is it really constructed that much better?

2 - Is the price reasonable?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/27/2000:

settsrn, There is a old saying when it comes to buying or seling a boat. "Asking and getting are two different things". But if you don't ask you won't get. You didn't mention whether this is a dealer or driveway(owner) sale.

Current NADA list this boat, motor, and trailer avg retail $21985 to high retail of $25605. This doesn;'t include any options or electronics. $29,000 sounds a little on the high side for this boat.

As for the construction, The Grady White is aby far ther better builld boat. It also holds a better resale, than Proline or Aquasport.

Since Grady adopted the new SeaV2 hull design several year back (copied the old Formula 233 hull design) they handle rough water better delivering a much smoother and drier ride.

Aquasports seem to be a much wetter ride in choppy water.

Hope this helps. Good luck and safe boating...David

I am thinking of buying a Stamas boat. What is the history of the boat in general. The particular boat is a 21 ' open boat with biminni top, 1978, outboard.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/25/2000:

bmyers, In 45 years of boat building, the Stamas family has never had a reported hull failure on one of their boats. That's pretty impresive.

For further info check out their web site

http://www.stamas.com

As for the 1978 boat, check out the stringers, tramson and floor system for rot or delamination . If solid, check wiring system, fuel tank, outboard, steering and controls.

Good luck and safe boating...David

Looking for a 18-20' outboard runabout for general boating that has a very shallow draft for boating in the Cheasepeak Bay area. The water depth at my property is only 1.5' at mean low tide, so I need a boat with a shallow draft, but broad enough beam to handle the rougher waters in the bay. What boats do you recommend?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/23/2000:

Terance, Suggest you look to the Dual consoles these boats offer a wide range of use for the type of general boat specific to the bay carrying both enough deadrise for a comfortable ride and shallow drafts.

Check out the better quality Edgewaters, Boston Whalers and Grady Whites.

Good luck and safe boating...David

I have a 23 foot Boston Whaler Outrage with 300 hp of Outboards on the stern. It is a medium-deep V. http://www.whaler.com/Boats/outrage23.html

The boat weighs about 5000 lbs with fuel and crew.

The reason I asked about LOA is that I am considering moving up to the 26 or 28 foot version of the Outrage. The 23 is a fine boat (and probably does better with the gas than it's larger brothers). However, I have a feeling the 26 may handle 5 foot chops better than the 23.

My father (who has had boats of one kind or another for over 40 years) believes the 23 is the best choice because it is shorter and won't plow into the next wave on the downside of a swell like a longer boat would.

What do you think?

Kirk

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/8/2000:

Kirk, As far as a five foot seas go, been there,done that. The bigger boat (the 28) will definately provide a better ride and handle head seas better. Wider beam, Heavier boat (more displacement). It will definately burn more fuel.

My 233 Formula would start going airborne in a 5 to 6 foot head sea around 23-2400RPM. it would only start to plane around 2100, miserable ride. Formulas do not like to go slow. Now in a 2 to 3 foot chop it was an entirely different story. Couldn't ask for a better riding boat.

With the 27 Albermarle in a 5 foot sea, I would put the tabs down and wouldn't even back off throttles, blast right through these seas. Again wider beam, heavier boat.

Suggest taking new boat on a demo. Make the sale contigent on a rough water demo. Probably won't be able to get dealer to run boat in this kind of sea conditions. But if you don't ask you won't get.

Good luck....David

considering buying a 1989 seacraft 23 walkaround. appears to be in excellent condition & the guy seems straight up. the only thing that makes me nervous is that the price (9500) is about half what all other 23s are going for, & most significantly, the tracker marine nameplate.

any information/advice you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance

jay

aisa@worldnet.att.net

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/7/2000:

Jay, The SeaCraft/Tracker was manufactured in Clinton,Missouri. Built from 1971 to 1989. I'm more familiar with the 23 center console and the cuddy cabin version than the walkaround.

In my area (Cheapeake Bay) they sell (driveway sale) 2 to3 times more than book value. Most selling in 14K to 21K range.

This SeaCraft was package with a 200 hp outboard. Current NADA average retail without trailer is $6840. High retail at $7930 and low at 5610.

My recollection of these boats were that the early models boats ( the ones built in 1970's) were better constructed and better riding ( more glass in the hull, heavier). Later versions were lighter.

Hull design for this boat copied the Formula 233 hull. Sea Crafts are known for sea worthiness and soft ride in rough water. I've regular fished SeaCrafts 75 to 130 Miles offshore in up to 8 and 10 foot seas. Handled 2 to 3 footers without even backing off throttle. Put the trim tabs down and plowed right though them. One of the all time great fishing boats.

if this package includes trailer and engine checks out good. This price is not out of line. Just remember "Asking and getting are two different things, but if you don't ask you won't get."

Check stringers for any rot or water logging. Wiring and fuel tank( check for broken baffles in fuel cell). Counter with a reasonable offer, make sale subject to a sea trial. Go fishing.

Hope this helps, good luck and safe boating...David

My dad and I are trying to compromise on a boat...I want something good for wakeboarding (excellent speed control, 19-22 ft) he wants something that will not ride as poor as a typical tournament boat. I was thinking along the lines of a Maristar, but I am not sure. We are looking for a used (90-97) boat for under 20K.

Thanks,

Matt Van Winkle

mvansb23@yahoo.com

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/1/2000:

Matt, The typical tournament ski boat is designed to deliver a fairly flat wake.Motors are midship and they generallly carry 5 to 7 degrees deadrise (degree of V) at the transom to flatten out the wake for slalom skiing or barefooting. Not known for a smooth ride in choppy water.

For these type of boats to deliver a good wake for wake boarding they added ballast systems to make the boats stern heavy. Or you have to add weight and you will have to experiment to get the perfect wake.

You will find that some of the bowriders and sundeck boats are excellent for wakeboarding and skiing while delivering a soft ride in choppy water. They carry 18 to 21 degrees of deadrise.

The Mastercraft Maristar is good boat but ride will suffer in a chop. In the preowned market look at Sea Ray, Cobalt, Regal, and Wellcraft Eclipse (not Excels). The Sea Rays and Cobalts are the better constructed boats( they carry a higher resale value) and generallly will be in better condition. A six year old(1994) Sea Ray can be warrantied (Sea Ray Legacy) for three years if purchased from a Sea Ray dealer.

There are boats available in your price range. Make sale contigent on demo ride (wake board), motor compression check and pressure check of lower unit. ( low boat hours doesn't mean no engine/drive problems). This will be easy to do if you purchase from a reliable dealer.

Hope this helps. Good luck and happy boat hunting...David

bmarlin475 gave this follow-up answer on 8/1/2000:

Matt, The typical tournament ski boat is designed to deliver a fairly flat wake.Motors are midship and they generallly carry 5 to 7 degrees deadrise (degree of V) at the transom to flatten out the wake for slalom skiing or barefooting. Not known for a smooth ride in choppy water.

For these type of boats to deliver a good wake for wake boarding they added ballast systems to make the boats stern heavy. Or you have to add weight and you will have to experiment to get the perfect wake.

You will find that some of the bowriders and sundeck boats are excellent for wakeboarding and skiing while delivering a soft ride in choppy water. They carry 18 to 21 degrees of deadrise.

The Mastercraft Maristar is good boat but ride will suffer in a chop. In the preowned market look at Sea Ray, Cobalt, Regal, and Wellcraft Eclipse (not Excels). The Sea Rays and Cobalts are the better constructed boats( they carry a higher resale value) and generallly will be in better condition. A six year old(1994) Sea Ray can be warrantied (Sea Ray Legacy) for three years if purchased from a Sea Ray dealer.

There are boats available in your price range. Make sale contigent on demo ride (wake board), motor compression check and pressure check of lower unit. ( low boat hours doesn't mean no engine/drive problems). This will be easy to do if you purchase from a reliable dealer.

Hope this helps. Good luck and happy boat hunting...David

I am looking at a Splendor Boat. 240 Platinum Cat. I have never heard of this make. It is made in Indiana. I am in Arizona and there is no dealer here. Do you know about this boat. It is a l998.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 6/30/2000:

Allwashedup, this particular boat is not sold in my area, but I was able to locate quite a bit of information about this boat.

As you know it is manufactured in Silver Lake, Indiana. This 1998 24 foot tunnel hull catamaran has an 8 foot 4 inch beam. Engine packages range from 4.3 to 454 mag with Bravo III drives. This boat is capable of speeds of 60mph+. The boat comes standard with 50 gal fuel tank with 90 gal optional. I did find test data from MerCruiser for this boat. Go to web site:

www.santum.com/boats/accessories.htm

Current NADA prices this boat with 5.7 Mercruiser at low retail of $20,350 to high retail of $28,850. Avg retail $24,870. Options and trailer not included in pricing.

Just remember with no dealer support this is considered a foreign boat as far as local dealers are concerned if you decide to trade. This will greatly effect resale or trade value. I regularly recommend to customers whether they purchase a boat from me or not, buy with an eye towards resale. Purchase a boat that has an excellent name and reliabity. Always buy quality it will pay off in the long run.

Thanks for the question and good luck on your planned purchase.

Safe Boating....David.

I am in the process of buying a new boat (probably a Searay, 21-24 feet) and would like to know the advantages of buying a new boat over a used one and any pitfalls in having the dealer open list my 1986 Four Winns 245 (they charge a flat broker's fee of $3000).

bmarlin475 gave this response on 6/14/2000:

Congratulations on your selection of SeaRay. Whether you buy new or preowned SeaRay you are in a win-win situation. The major advantage of purchasing new over a preowned SeaRay are (1) New Boat Warranties- 5 years transferrable hull and deck , OEM (orgininal equipment manufacter) warranties that may extend beyond the one year overall warranty (2) Newest product design and technology. SeaRay spends over $20 million a year on new products, design and engineering (PD&E). Offering more models, more standard features, more innovation in product design than any recreational boat manufacturer in the world. (There is an old eskimo saying " If you aren't the lead dog, the scenery never changes.") Now the flip side of the coin ... Preowned SeaRay's. (1) One of the highest resale values. (2) Up to a six year old boat currently 1994 SeaRays can be certified with a 48 point inspection and have extended product protection for up to three years.

Now a word of CAUTION. Are new Four Winns boats sold locally? How many preowned boats does the dealer have on his lot? How many brokerage? Length of time avg sale? On an open listing what is the incentive for them to sell your boat? What you need to be cautious of , is that you don't want to end up making two boat payments, two insurance payments while you are waiting for your preowned to sell. Thanks for your question.and Good luck on your purchase. Safe Boating.....David

I am considering buying a 1982 34' tri-cabin trawler at 62,000. The trawler is a Chien Hwa with a 120 hp Ford Lehman diesel. The vessel is well equiped with electronics. The trawler is clean and everything functions with the exception of the fuel guage, which to me is no big deal because the tanks have a sight glass. There is teak on every horizontal weatherdeck surface including the fly bridge.

Overall the vessel looks sound to me and has the equipment that I favor being a retired merchant marine navigator. This will be the first yacht I have ever owed and although experienced commercially, I could use some pointers as far as this vessel goes. It does seem to be not as common as other trawlers.

Thanks,

Thomas Olive

bmarlin475 gave this response on 6/5/2000:

The Chein HWA 34 Flying Bridge Trawler was built from 1972 to 1987. Not a very well know boat here in the Chesapeake Bay Area but very popular in the BVI(British Virgin Islands).This fiberglass hull powerboat is very roomy and is a very comfortable cruising boat. With a draft of three feet and 200 gals of fresh water you can cruise from island to island. Current NADA Price Guide prices the base boat without options at LowRetail 30,550 , AvgRetail 39,150. High Retail 44,250. Lesson One in boat buying - Asking and Getting are two different things. Lesson Two -Whether you are buying a preowned from a dealer, brokerage or private sale ***Hire a Certified Yacht Appriasier*** (NOTE:You Select) not that the seller will be dishonest but make the sale contigient on a satifactory survey (you will have to pay for it) and a sea trial. If anything is suspect. You can walk away. This is a very very cheap boat insurance policy, Spending a few hundred dollars could save you from making a very costly mistake. The survey will turn up any problems such as fiberglass blistering or any damage to the hull or running gear, problems with electrical wiring, fuel tanks and delivery system ,rotten or water logged stringers. Also have a compression check done on the engine. **Final note** unless the electronics are fairly new, they are obslete and have been replaced with new and better technology. View them as not worth very much. Take them out of the negotiations. Hope this will be of help. Good luck and safe boating ....David

=====Notebook 1\Dana Mini boats\

18:26 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I have just purchased a boat that is called a Dana Mini, and I would like to find more imformation about the boat and the manufacturer. Have you ever herd of this type of boat? Is there a web site that I could go to and find more imfo?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/6/2000:

I am not familar with this boat but my research did turn up some info.

The Dana Mini-Cruiser was a 19 foot fiberglass boat that was produced by the Dana Custom Boat Company from 1981 to 1990 as an inboard/outboard and outboard model. The company last year of production was 1994.

There last address was 2515 Zandua Ave,

Long Beach, California 90815. Some manufacturers maintain parts and or mail address for 6 to 7 years after last production. It couldn't hurt to write them at the above address.

Was not able to find any references or web sites that mention this particular boat. Being a west coast manufacturer there may have been limited production.

For boat values log on to www.nadaguides.com/

Good luck and safe boating....David

=====Notebook 1\Deadrise\

18:04 Sunday, November 03, 2002

How is deadrise measured?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 11/1/2000:

bdalton.

Deadrise can be measured any where along the keel or center line of a boat. It is generally accepted with most powerboats that the degree of deadrise is measured at the transom.

If you held a straight edge at the bottom of the transom the angle between the straight edge and the angle of the bottom (on either side) is the angle of deadrise which is measured in degrees.

Hence ski boats typically 5 to 7 degrees.

High preformance boats 23 to 24 degrees.

Offshore Fishing boats 17 to 24 degrees.

Cruisers 15 to 21.

Hope this helps. Good luck and safe boating....David

=====Notebook 1\dealers\

17:58 Sunday, November 03, 2002

where can I find new boat dealers or brokers?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 1/19/2001:

Dear Powelldld,

I'm not exactly sure what you are looking for. Most dealers and brokers primarily specialize in one or two product lines. Either fishing boats, cruising boats, yachts...etc.

If you looking at a certain manufacturer such as Sea Ray, Boston Whaler,Cruisers, Carver, Wellcraft or whatever product line most manufacturers have on line sites with dealer locators.

A directory of yacht brokers and boat dealers displayed alphabetically, regionally, and by state are available at http;www.marinesource.com/

Also try www.yachtworld.com/

Good luck and safe boating...David

powelldld rated this answer:

powelldld asked this follow-up question on 1/20/2001:

In shopping for a boat, I was hoping to find an internet company selling boats at prices without so much negotiating. (similar to that method of purchasing a car). I also was hoping to find a site listing all dealer costs, too. Any suggestions.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 1/22/2001:

Sorry this doesn't exist. No one is selling boats in this fashion. There is no where near the volume of boats being manufactured compared to automobiles. Most boat builders production for the entire year is less than a few hundred boats.

My suggestion is locate a reputable dealer or saleperson(talk to other boaters they will tell you who to talk to or who to avoid). Most dealers are looking to develop a long time relationship with their customer. As a salesmen for Sea Ray boats for the last 6 years appox 60 to 70% of my sales are to repeat customeers. Some have bought 3 or 4 boats.

95% of purchasing a boat is who will provide service or take care of problems should they occur after the sale.

The biggest mistake alot of new boat owners make when shopping for a boat is to focus entirely on price. They end up buying the wrong boat.

First locate a saleperson or dealer that you trust. Second, focus on the product. Third the best price.

Just remember "You get what you pay for".

Hope this helps. Good luck and safe boatine...David

=====Notebook 1\deck boats\

19:20 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Last summer on vacation while "piloting" my conventional 24' steel hulled pontoon boat with a whopping 40HP engine, I notices several twin hulled higher performance crafts on the water - same deck and design concept, but sleeker, more attractive, more versatile - bigger engines made the speed look like you could even ski with them. Thought they were Sea Ray products but I could be mistaken. Are you familiar with this line of boat (Sea Ray or otherwise)and if there are any rentals of these types near Smith Mountain Lake, VA?

Thanks - Rob

bmarlin475 gave this response on 6/15/2000:

Rob, the boats that you are referring to are the deck boats. Sea Ray first introduced a 24 foot in 1994. Curently just about every sport boat builder now offers a deck boat. The Sea Ray Sundecks are available in the 190, 210 and all new 240. They are extremely popular. With the amenities

( standard equipment and options) that are offered, creature ccmforts and just outstanding handling characteristics of these boats make them a very versatile boat for a variety of family fun.

I believe the 24 ft you were referring to with the 40hp Merc was a Harris Kayot pontoon boat. They are rented by Bridgewater Marina in Smith Mountain Lake, VA.. They are the largest boat rental operation on Smith Mountain Lake. Offering everything from WaveVentures, to Harris Kayot Pontoons, to Sea Ray Ski Boats & even a Houseboat. They offer multiple rental locations.

Rob, I don't know of any rental company currently offering the SeaRay Sundecks. But to preview the boats go to Sea Ray's web site.

http://www.searay.com You can view running footage of the boats and or locate the closest SeaRay dealer to you using the dealer locater. Tell them David sent you...thanks for the question. Safe boating..David.

=====Notebook 1\diesel outboards\

17:10 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Someone told me that diesel outboard motors are available. Who makes them and where can i find one? bmarlin475 gave this response on 11/29/2001:

Dear anonymous,

Yanmar builds two small light weight direct injected water cooled 4 cycle diesel outboards. A 27 hp 3 cyclinder model weighing in at 207 lbs. Also 36 hp model that weighs 256 lbs. You can check them out at

http:/www.yanmar.nl/pm_out.ntm

Found a Yanmar dealer in Peniscola, Florida Contact Brown Marine Service at http:/www.brownmarine.com/

Also located another diesel mfg. China Diesel. Reach them at

http:/www.chinadiesel.com/mrn/diesel/outboard.htm or email them at dieseloutboard@chinadiesel.com

The diesel outboard is general used in commerical operations. (ie: construction work using barges.)

I understand that they are expensive.

Good luck hope this will be of some help.

David

Can you suggest where I might find a used diesel outboard motor?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 5/29/2000:

Sorry,this has got to be a very rare bird. In over 40 years of boating I have never seen one and don't know of any major outboard manufacture that makes one.

bmarlin475 gave this follow-up answer on 5/29/2000:

Further research I found a couple of mfgs. But wasn't able to come up with a used source. Yanmar has built two small light weigh direct injected water cooled 4 cycle diesel outboards. A 27 hp 3 cyclinder model weighing in at 207 lbs. Also 36 hp model that weighs 256 lbs. You can check them out at www.yanmar.nl/pm_out.ntm

Found a Yanmar dealer in Peniscola, Florida Contact Brown Marine Service at www.brownmarine.com/

Also located another diesel mfg. China Diesel. Reach them at http:/www.chinadiesel.com/mrn/diesel/outboard.htm or email them at dieseloutboard@chinadiesel.com Good luck hope this will be a help.

=====Notebook 1\Documenting a boat\

16:55 Sunday, November 03, 2002

What are the Pro's and Con's to documenting a boat? My dockmate has told me to document my boat but in the past I have always simply registered the boat with my state.

If it matters, we boat on Lake Erie and will be visiting Canada this year.

thanks

bmarlin475 gave this response on 5/4/2002:

Dear awc01,

Federal documentation is required through the U.S. Coast Guard for the operation of vessels in certain trades. Vessel at least 5 net tons and usually 25 feet in length qualify.

A complete history of the vessel is maintained at the vessel port of documentation which is used for verification of the chain of title from the last documented owner and identifies any outstanding mortgages or liens against the vessel.

A certificate of documentation serves as evidence of the vessel nationality and ownership is recognized around the world.

When the boat leaves or enters the U.S. it is not required to be cleared through customs, just a report of departure and arrival.

It also acts as a theft deterrent, If the boat is stolen it will fall under Federal law instead of state or local law for recovery and prosecution.

And finally it make it possible for lending institutions to record a Preferred Ship's Mortagage which makes financing easier.

Hope this gives you a little more insight. Good luck and safe boating.....David

=====Notebook 1\EPA\

18:19 Sunday, November 03, 2002

If i purcased a boat in indiana but lived in california would there be epa regulations on a r71 ranger 17' 125 mercury motor?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/9/2000:

lcoronel. as far as I know they are no EPA regulation concearing outboard motors. What you may be referring to is that in California some enivormentists are claiming that 4 stroke outboards and jet skis are fouling our waters and they are trying to restrict (ban) on some lakes. Onty 4 stroke I/O's and outboards would be allowed. Though most 2 stroke outboard enthusist know it was never an issue of water quality but more of air quality and noise.

Yes you can purchase a boat and loan in another state. Although we willl have to register the boat in the state that you reside in.

=====Notebook 1\fishing boat choices\

18:35 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Am going to buy a boat ( 20 ft.) to use in the sound at the outer banks, n.c. What are the advantages/disadvantages of an inboard vs. an outboard?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/30/2000:

Frank, since you are going to primarily boating and fishing in the Currituck, Pamilco and or Albermarle Sound area, I would go with the outboard. Outboard boats draft less water, and these areas can get quite shallow. This would allow you to get in some fairly skinny water without running aground.

As to the advantages or disadvantages of both, it really comes down to personal preference. Generally you will find that most fishing boats that you will find in the 20 foot range will be outboards.

My personal recommendation is to make sure the boat is self bailing with upright and level flotation. Unsinkable is better. The sounds around the Outer Banks can get quite narly if the winds kick up.

Good Luck and Safe Boating...David

I'm in an initial stage of boat shopping. I'm primarily interested in a fishing-type boat, but would like to also use it for recreation (ski) to appease my wife (go figure!).

With those two objectives in mind, I would like to keep the price under $10,000 and around 16ft (or thereabouts). The use would mostly be on inland lakes, but I wouldn't rule out the possibility of the Great Lakes.

Any recommendations? New vs Used. Brand? Hp? I know this is pretty vague, but I'm not very knowledgable. I'm hoping this could give me an avenue to start with.....thanx.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/26/2000:

Anonymous, I would definately take RobertL's advise on taking a certified boating course either through the Coast Guard Aux or the Power Squadron.

But as to your question on type of boats Bayliner ( though I am not a great fan) offers a new 16ft with 50hp and Logic( a Genmar product in a new hull material called roplene) offers a 15ft and with a 40hp for $7995 plus taxes/fees/safety gear. This engine package will be to small for waterskiing. With a 90 hp the price is somewhere in the $10 to 11K range. Both of these boats will be great in protected waterways (small lakes and rivers). The Great Lakes? Pick your day.

My suggestion is to look in the 18 ft range probably used for what is called a Dual Console. These boats are versitile, offering both fishing,skiing or just plain boating. Look at Sea Ray, Boston Whaler, Edgewater, Wellcraft and Grady White. Most of the outboards are in the 115 to 135 range offering excellent preformance for skiing and fishing. with amenities like live wells, ski/wakeboard storage and enough freeboard (height from waterline to top of gunnel) and deadrise (degree of V measured at the tramsom) to handle occasional rough water and to deliver a safe and dry ride.

Hope this answers some of your questions, Good Luck and Safe Boating...David

glwelch asked this question on 7/3/2000:

I'm interested in buying a new boston whaler boat, either the 13 foot or the 14 foot dauntless. what is the retail price on these boats with a 40hp on the 13 ft, and at least a 50 on the 14 ft.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/5/2000:

glwelch, I contacted my friends at a Boston Whaler dealer in northern Virginia. The 2000 Sport 13 w/30hp Merc sell for $8995, The Daultless 14 w/ 50 Merc and trailer should retail in the 19 to $20,000 range.

If you like the Whaler design but not the price, Take a good look at Edgewater Boats. They are designed and built by the chief designer and engineer, (Bob Dougherty) of Boston Whalers for over 30 years. (Sea Ray is the current owner, they purchased Boston Whaler in 1996.) They are unsinkable, carry a life time hull warranty and provide a better and dryer ride than a Whaler. Current production is from 14 to 26 foot.They price appox 10 to 15% under Boston Whaler and Grady White.

Hope this answers your question. Good Luck and Safe Boating...David

=====Notebook 1\floor rotten\

17:39 Sunday, November 03, 2002

bought a used fiberglass boat and havind second thoughts about it. the reason is because the boat did not come with a cover so when i stepped onto its wooden floor, it began to bend underneath me. so, i decided to take a look under the floor and discovered that it is all rotten because it was kept outside under all the rains. obviously, i removed the entire wooden floor, but just do not know if the fiberglass hull is still good. should it be? can fiberglass be damaged by moisture on the interior side of the boat since it is not painted like the exterior? also, is there some sort of a device (ultrasound, etc) that would test the integrity of a fiberglass hull. i already came up with ideas on how to place new wooden floor, but i do not want to undertake it until i know for a fact that the hull is still sturdy!

i was also wondering if there is some sort of a polymer (sort of like roofing or a driveway tar) that can be applied directly onto the interior side of the hull to make it more sturdy and moisture resistant?

finally, when it comes to used boats, is it better to buy aluminum or fiberglass? also, why are boats made out of fiberglass to begin with? from little that i have learned so far, fiberglass is heavier yet seems to be more fragile. after i removed the wooden flooring and took a look at the thickness of the very bottom of the hull, i began to think that an aluminum would have been better? could you please comment on this, please?

thanks!!!

bmarlin475 asked for clarification on 7/6/2001:

To best answer this question, would you please provide me the year, make and model of your boat. There is probably more wood in this boat than the floor, such as the transom and stringers.

Are you using the boat in fresh or salt water?

And what will be your primary use of the boat? Fishing/skiing/cruising?

Thanks, David

Anonymous added this clarification on 7/6/2001:

the boat is a '76 16' "Imperial" tri-hull open hull runabout. i itend on fishing and cruising in fresh water only as i live in northern midwest.

the boat used to have an inboard motor which was removed and fitted with an outboard one. when i bought it, it still had its original gas tank under the floor, which i recently removed. the wooden flooring was completely removed by me due to rot. it also had 3 wooden 2x4 or 2x8 planks that ran along the hull, supporting the floor -- one in the middle and one on each side. i removed them as well, leaving these fiberglass grooves.

you are correct, the very back that is supporting the outboard (i believe that it is called the stern) is made out of wood as well, but i have no intention of replacing it since it is in good condition. in fact, the entire area which used to house the inboard is covered with some sort of a plack waterproof polymer or tar, including the wooden back.

when i removed the flooring board, i discovered that foam was placed between it and the hull of the boat. i am assuming that this is a standard practice. however, all the moisture that distroyed the wooden flooring got trapped between that foam and the fiberglass hull. thus, that is why i am in a bind. since i know next to nothing about boats (especially fiberglass ones), i want to know whether it is worth continuing forward or simply scrapping the boat.

finally, what do you know about "Imperial"? do they make good boats or is this a dud?

THANKS!!!

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/10/2001:

Sorry this probably not the answer you are looking for, but the hull alone is probably worth maybe $100-$150. The true test to whether a product is any good is that it is still be produced and the company is still in business. In this case neither is. Tri hull designs went out of favor years ago. Even best case situation with good floor and running outboard is fair condition it would only be worth $250 to $300.

Good luck .... David

Anonymous rated this answer:

Anonymous asked this follow-up question on 7/11/2001:

David,

i must have given you the wring impression. my only intention at this moment is to fix up the boat rather than sell it. what i need to know is how. it does not seem to have any direct punctures or cracks. but its original wooden flooring was all rotten when i got it, so that is why i had to remove it completely. as of right now, i have only the fiberglass hull and i would like to know how to make it stronger. like i asked you in my initial inquiry, is there some sort of a polymer that i can apply directly onto the interior of the hull to make it stronger? also, can fiberglass rot from excessive moisture? and if so, how do i go about detecting and fixing rot spots?

another advisor gave me some suggestions, yet i was not very clear on them. i know that some stores sell these cloth sheets which, when combined with polyester resin, like "Bondo", are used to cover up holes. i think what he was suggesting is to cover the entire interior of the hull with such cloth and resin to thicken the hull. what is your take on this?

thanks!!!

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/12/2001:

Fiberglass will not rot, but it can retain moisture. Those early hulls used polyester resins which is not resistance to osmosis blistering or water retination. Vinylester resins are more expensive and is less prone to blistering but a more difficult to work with. The foam in the floor is necessary for floatation. The wood in substructure will have to be removed and replaced, this is the structural intregity of the hull.

My earlier point being, if you are not experienced in working with these materials. The cost alone to trying to repair this will far exceed what the boat is worth. Also just adding more fiberglass and resins will not solve any structural hull problems, it will only cover it up and possible end up with an unsafe boat. In this area there were two drownings last month due to structural problems in a small boat.

Good luck...David

=====Notebook 1\Fuel consumption\

17:54 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Hi, I am considering the purchase of a 27 to 30 ft Searay. I like the twins for safety purpose but am concerned about fuel consumption.

Would you know what the percentage of extra fuel is used with twins? For example if I needed to go 100 miles with a single that used 50 gallons for the trip, how many gallons would the twins have eaten up ??

Thanks Dino

bmarlin475 gave this response on 3/21/2001:

Dear Dino,

Any one or several factors can influence fuel consumption, such as weight ( load of boat- light or heavy), trim, hull bottom condition(clean or fouled), rpm ,speed , sea conditions,wind,tides, air and water temperature.

A single engine boat may use more fuel (gph) than a twin engine. because it's having to run at a higher rpm to achieve the same performance as the twins at a lower rpm.

MerCruiser rates their engines in gallons per hour(gph).

The 4.3L EFI (210 PHP /prop rated horsepower) is appox 7 to 9 gph at 3100 to 3500 rpm.

The 5.0L EFI (240) and the 5.7L EFI (260) is appox 9 to 12 gph at 3100 to 3500 rpm.

The 5.0 and 5.7 are the same block, same weight different stroke.

The 7.4L MPI (310) is apppx 12 to 14 gph at 3100 to 3500 rpm.

The different of 300 to 400 rpm could easily translate to 3 to 5 miles per hour faster. In other words you increased fuel consumption but you covered more distance.

Hope this is helpful. Good luck and safe boating....David

I have a 1997 90 H.P. Mercury.I would like to know how much gas a 90 burns per at W.O.T.? I have been told 3.5 gal.and another dealer said 5.0 gal. Does anybody know?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/16/2000:

sassydog6, The 90Hp Merc was offered as stantard power on the popular SeaRay 175 Outboard Bow Rider. I believe at WOT the fuel consumption was appox in the 6 gph range.

But to be certain, I have the exact specifications and fuel consumption figures on this engine at work and will be glad to provide that tomorrow. Till them...Safe Boating...David

sassydog6 asked this follow-up question on 7/17/2000:

David, Thanks for attempting to answer my question. I would be interested in your sending the exact specifications. Waiting to hear from ya, Al

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/18/2000:

Al, the spec are as follows,

At 3800RPM 6.8 GPH (Gallons Per Hour)

At 5500RPM (WOT) 8.5 GPH. Hope this answers your question. David.

=====Notebook 1\Gallons per hour\

16:43 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I own a 2855 bayliner with at 7.4 merc, dual prop. gas tank 105 gallons. My question is how do I calculate aproximately how many hours I get per gallon. I know it depends how fast you are going but is there like and average or is there a formula I can figure this out.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/31/2002:

Dear Sal,

This motor is normally rated from 12 to 15 gals per hour (gph) at appox 3000 to 3100rpm.( which should be optimum cruise speed. Increase rpm and fuel consumption goes upa accordingly.

Now factors, such as boat weight, hull configuration, fuel load, number of passengers,rpm, sea conditions,wind, tide, air and water temp all play a factor in speed and performance which greatly effects fuel comsumption.

Now to figure cruise range take fuel capacity substract 5 percent for unusable fuel. Divide remaining gals by GPH which will tell you appox hours of cruising to next fill up.

100 gals fuel -5% = 95 Gals

95 gals divided by 13.5gph= 7 hours of cruising at a constant 3000 rpm.

(fuel-5% divided by gph=cruising hours)

Assuming a constant speed of appox 25 mph would give you an appox cruising range of 175 miles.

( mph*hours=distance)

Hope this helps,,,good luck and safe boating.....David

=====Notebook 1\gelcoat gouge\

16:46 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I took a nice gouge out of the bow of my fiberglass boat. Is there a quick, easy, and cheap way to repair this?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/15/2002:

Dear tjlisek,

The question to ask is how deep a gouge? If the scratch is through the gel coat, you can purchase gel coat to match your color hull. Fill the gouge with gel coat(I find that a business card helps to smooth it out.) Let set overnight,lightly wet sand starting with 240 ending up with 1200. Finish up with a rubbing compound with wax sealer and buff out.

If it through the gel coat and into the laminate, you will be better off consulating a fiberglass specialist. The repair will cost a little more but the repair will be unnoticeable and will be done correctly.

Hope this helps...Safe boating...David

=====Notebook 1\Gensets\

18:41 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Is there anyone who knows the correct wiring of the brush block assembly on an Onan Boat generator, 6.5KW Gas, Model MCCK "C" Spec? I had my unit overahuled, and they returned the brush block assembly disassembled in a bag.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/18/2000:

Epearsall, This particular Onan model MCCK gas generator has been discontinued but you can obtain parts, service or techical advise from Adams Electric Services in Miami.

The Service manual number for this model is #927-0752 .The Parts manual number is #927-0224

Contact Adams directly by phone (305)856-2930 or fax (305)285-4738.

Their web address is http;//www.adamselectric.com/

Hope this helps. Good luck and safe boating...David

I have a generator on the boat. After I get it started it runs for about half a minute then quits. I start it again and get the ame results. Any Ideas?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/16/2000:

firemedic, generators whether gas or diesel have automatic shutdowns installed to protect the generator for various things such as low oil pressure and inadequate cooling on the exhaust side.

If this happens with a cold engine (first start) most likely its the auto choke system. Second check fuel strainer.

On a warm engine(if it runs for a few minutes and them shutsdown) I would check the cooling water possibly for a clogged or congested intake. Make sure the seacock is in the full open position. Check your sea strainer.

Hope this will help. Safe boating...david

=====Notebook 1\Glastron\

17:52 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I am looking for information on the worth of a 1968 model Glastron GT 350, boat. I've not seen anymore boats like this one.It has one bench seat in the back with a walk through windshield. The front is open with seats on each side. It has a 55hp electric shift Johnson motor. The boat is rated for 115 hp motor.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 3/31/2001:

Dear Anonymous,

The NADA price guide on Glastron boats only goes back to 1971. This model ceased production prior to 1971.

Glastron "Runabouts Done Right" have been building boats since 1956, were sold to Genmar in 1987.

My suggestion is to contact Glastron directly. They may know of or be able to put you in contact with a Glastron Collectors Group.

http://glastron.com/

Good luck and safe boating...David

=====Notebook 1\GPS & Radios\

17:14 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Where would be the best place to buy a gps system the best salt water,deap sea fishfinder, and what is the best radio to have while out in the ocean vhf,uhf,ect... all this epuipment is to be used for deap sea,salt water fishing

bmarlin475 gave this response on 11/3/2001:

Dear bigdbmu1,

For a variety of depth finders, GPS, and VHF radios check either West Marine, E&B, Boaters World, or BoatUS. These products can either be ordered though there stores or catalog or online.

The advantage of going to the store vs ordering on line or though a catolog is that you can get first hand operational instructions and be able to check out the various features that each product offers.

Plus the opportunity to speak with a salesperson that is knowledgable about the various manufactures that can explain the features/benefits and will able to help you select the marine components that will fit your needs and pocketbook. And will also be able to offer installation.

The radio you want is the VHF.

You can access online online catalog shopping for these components by logging on to the following:

www.westmarine.com/

www.boatersworld.com/

www.boatus.com/

Good luck and safe boating....David

=====Notebook 1\Gull Boats\

18:03 Sunday, November 03, 2002

i would like to know anything about Gull boats. is there any websites that have anything about Gull boats? i know they must be rare because i cant find anything on them. any help would be appreciated.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 11/27/2000:

Dear Ranger,

I suspect that the Gull boat you are looking for is the 11 foot sailing dingy . Try contacting them in the UK at

Gull Class Owners' Association

Crabbetts

Horning Road

Hoveton St John

Norfolk

NR12 8JW

Tel: 01692 630367

web site:

http://www.yotting.com/

Hope this helps, good luck and safe boating. David

=====Notebook 1\heads\

19:17 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Why are bathrooms on boats called heads?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 6/21/2000:

Back in the days of yore,or when Roman and Phoecian ships were either trading, pillering or plundering, potty breaks were a necessity. Located in the bow leading up to the figure head or bow sprint of these ships was a open grated area. Due to the rise and fall of the bow in the seas this created a natural flushing action, well you get the picture. Thanks for your question. David

=====Notebook 1\Hour of use\

18:23 Sunday, November 03, 2002

How many hours are TOO MANY hours on a Yamaha 40 hp outboard motor? What is the usual expected life of these motors with continued maintenance? Thanks!

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/8/2000:

FirefightrBob, as to how many hours, most outboard's shelf life is appox 900 to 1000 hours before melt down. As to how many hours are to many, depends entirely on how the motor is maintained and how it is run.

A motor with 750 hours that never been run full throttle (around 3500 to 4000 RPM) and regular serviced will be in better shape than one with 350 hours run constanly at wide open throttle (WOT) and no regular maintenance.

Hope this helps... Good luck and safe boating...David

=====Notebook 1\Houseboat tips\

18:30 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I purchased a 1970 34' Nautaline houseboat.

I want to build two bedrooms on top of the pilot house and the upper deck and make the ceilings of the two bedrooms the new upper deck. Will I seriously undermine the stability of the boat? What materials should I use? A picture of the model I purchased is at:

http://www.houseboatingworld.com/classnaut.htm

Your advice is greatly appreciated!!

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/4/2000:

Oxford, not torain on your parade ( I am not a naval arctitech or ships designer) but my common sense tells me to poo -poo this idea. Here's why.

The original hull was designed to displace a certain amount of water (hull displacement). Factored in this design was the boats overall length, beam, type of hull design, center of gravity, amount of deadrise, construction of hull, deck joints, bulkheads and materials (based on load stresses) used at the time, etc,etc.

This boat, the electrical and the fuel systems are 30 years old. A lot of boat design and engineering changes particular to materials has taken place.

Even if you used some of the high tech materials that are now available, just this cost alone you could probably buy a new boat.

I suspect that these planned changes will make for a unseaworthy, extremely top heavy and if not dangerous boat.

I you are still set on modifying this craft, I would first talk with a certified marine apppraiser and get his input.

I'm sorry this was not the answer you were looking for.

Good luck and safe boating...

David

=====Notebook 1\inboard vs outboards\

19:15 Sunday, November 03, 2002

hello, i was interested in knowing what your opinion was on imboard/outboard motors compared to outboard motors, and which one you think would be better for tubing and skiing.

thanks

bmarlin475 gave this response on 6/26/2000:

This is one question I get asked a lot and to a certain extent it is a personal choice.

Being a child of the 50's I grew up with (4 stroke) automotive engines, I could probably tear one down and put it back together in my sleep. The 2 strokes outboards of my youth (you mixed the oil and gas) were cantankerous, hard to start, loud, shook like crazy, had lousy fuel economy and generally smoked to high heaven. Even to this day if I took the cowling off an outboard I'm lost.

Wonderful thing about time and technology, everything improves.

The new wave of 2 stroke outtboards whether EFI (electonic fuel injected) or DFI (Direct fuel injected) they are easier to start, get better fuel economy and with less maintence and generally a cleaner burning and a much better performing product than years past..

The main advantage of outboards vs inboards/ outboard (I/O) is weight. By weighing less it take less horsepower to do the same job as an I/O.(More weight more horsepower needed, it's a vicious circle.)

Another reason outboards are popular for skiing, wake boarding etc. it that they wind up to a higher RPM (translation: Out of the hole and high end performance). The flip side of the coin is that the higher operating RPM (4000 to 5000) provides more wear and tear on the engines. Generally outboards are good for appox 900 to 1100 hrs. before melt down. The I/O's lower operating RPM (3100 to 3600, less wear and tear) are rated between 1100 to 1300 hrs.

The I/O is quieter. The Outboard is easier to maintain, and easier to winterize (less moving parts). The Outboard is more expensive than the I/O. The I/O boats draft more water than outboard boats. And the Outboard will lift completely out of the water, should you run aground.

So to answer your question... it's eenie meenie...It's purely a matter of choice.

Hope this helps or as my grandfather used to say, "Now it's clear as mud."

Thanks for the question and safe boating......David

=====Notebook 1\jet drives\

19:03 Sunday, November 03, 2002

. I own a 1973 16' bayliner. Last year my lower unit went out and i had to replace it. It took it to a guy that i know who works on boats and motors. He called me up one day and asked if i would be interested in putting a jet drive on instead of a lower unit. I told him to go ahead and do that. So he completely rebuilt the jet drive and then put it on. Well this past mem. weekend, i put it in the water and was totally depressed. I had lost quite a bit of horse power, needless to say that the guy didnt tell me that i would loose about 15 to 20% horse power. So now i am wanting to sell the jet drive so i can buy another lower unit. But i dont know what kind of price i should start out with. A guy i know told me it would be worth about a grand but he wasnt really for sure. So if you could help me out and give me some advice i would be very thankful. Thanks again. Chad. Oh buy the way the motor is a 79 merc. 90 hp.

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/12/2000:

Chad, Unfortunately I don't have a lot of good news for you. There is not a lot of demand for new or used jet drives. In my area (Hampton Roads) it is non-existent. To determine a used price or resale price,

price the drive at 1/2 to 2/3 of new and be prepared to negatiate. You might try to trade the jet drive in for a new or rebuitl lower unit. Due to the age of the boat and motor you may have more invested in the package than what it is worth. Good luck hope this works out for you. Safe Boating...David.

=====Notebook 1\Knots per hour\

18:13 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I don't want to appear stupid but the salesperson says this boat or that boat is a 20 knot or 23 knot boat, What in the sam hill is he talking about?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/18/2000:

You're not stupid, sometimes saleperson get to speaking boat language, and forget that the customer may not be on the same page.

What the saleperson way referring to was the speed of the particular boat.

To translate KNOTS to miles per hour (MPH) mulitply 1.15 times 20knots= 23MPH.

To convert MPH to KNOTS multiply 0.87 times 23 Knots=20 MPH.

Simple enough. Next time the salesperson it talking over your head. Stop him and ask him to explain, you find that he won't mind at all.

Good luck and safe boating....David

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bmarlin475 gave this follow-up answer on 9/18/2000:

The above answer had one small error, let's try again It should read.

To convert MPH to KNOTS multiply 0.87 times 23 MPH=20 KNOTS.

Sorry typing fingers got ahead of brain.

David

=====Notebook 1\LOA\

18:44 Sunday, November 03, 2002

What does LOA mean and how does it relate to a boat's true water handling capability.

Kirk

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/7/2000:

Kirk, LOA stands for Length Over All. This is a straight line measurement down the center of the hull and would include bow pulpit and swim platform.

As related to true water handling this is just part of the equation. What other things that affect boat performance and handling are water line length, the beam of the boat, motor package and drive, weigh of the boat, gear, number of passengers, amount of chine, deadrise (degree of V) and hull design (bottom running surface and how much hull is in the water). And the list goes on.

Hope this helps. Safe Boating...David

=====Notebook 1\manufacturers\

17:09 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I found a 30' Bonner Center Console 1999 with a six cylinder diesel. About how much is it worth? bmarlin475 gave this response on 12/3/2001:

Dear Pachuilv,

Sorry NADA values on this boat are not available.

This boat is a custom built/design by James and Boyd Bonner of Jensen beach, Florida.

This is almost a one of a kind boat. I could not find an active web site for them. Their last site was in 1999 and they had only a few hundred hits. I located their Hull Copyright # DVM 0069.

You can view the construction and application at

http://www.loc.gov/copyright/vessels/list/

You can try contacting the builder at:

P.O. Box 8085 Jensen Beach, Florida 34957

Good luck....David

=====Notebook 1\Maptec\

17:17 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Hi, I reciently lost both my outdrives due to hitting some rocks in shallow rocks. I have a depth finder, but I dont constantly watch it and by the time you hit shallow water it is to late anyway. What I need to know is do they make a device (sonar ?) that will let you know a few seconds ahead of time with a warning device if you are heading for shallow water or rocks

Thanks Dean

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/25/2001:

Dean,

Be their done that.

Other than going very,very slow or paying very close attention to nautical depth charts and not straying out of boating channnels, there is a company, MAPTECH, that is the current leader in developing 2D and 3D mapping software.

One of their programs is called CONTOUR PROFESSIONAL 2002. When linked to their digital charting programs and a GPS, it will not only provide underwater topography but you can see bottom terrain up to 3/4 miles ahead with shallow water alarm.

You can log on to their site to take tours of their product line or call them directly:

Maptech (978)933-3000 or fax (978)933-3030

http://www.maptech.com/

You can order products directly from them.

Sorry about the outdrives. Hope this helps.

Again, Good luck and safe boating....

David

=====Notebook 1\Marinas\

18:38 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Marinas in the Bahamas

bmarlin475 gave this response on 8/26/2000:

Rsalaw, the following sites should provide you with all the info you will need, such as number of slips available, services and rates.

Log on Whats on the Bahamas at

http://www.whatsonbahamas.com/marinas.lasso

or try Marinas in the Bahamas at

http://www.interknowledge.com/bahamas/marinas.htm

Good luck and safe boating...David

=====Notebook 1\merc 100\

18:53 Sunday, November 03, 2002

My motor is only running on the top two cylinders and will pick up the bottom two if I choke it. It only runs them for a few seconds. I have rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned all carburetors, replaced primer bulb, checked all fuel lines for leaks, checked the compression (59psi) per cylinder and still it only runs on the top two cylinders. What should I do that I haven't?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 7/27/2000:

mikenorby, Nothing wong here. This1989 100 hp Mercury is a 4 in line called a 2+2. Under 1800 RPM this motor only runs on the top two cylinders. allows slow speed trolling without loading up. Only things that sounds suspect is the compression (59 psi is low). It should be taken after the motor is warm. Pull all 4 spark plugs and l throttlein wide open position. It should be at least 100. Each cyclinder should be within 10 to 15%.of each other.

Hope this helps. Good luck and safe boating...David

=====Notebook 1\motor oil \

17:06 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I have a 24 ft Searay Sundancer with a 5.7LX Mercruiser. I live in the Carolinas with average summer season temperature of mid 70s to upper 80's. What is the best weight of oil to use? Is there any real advantage to using synthetic oil if I am only putting 60 hours on the boat each season and changing the oil once a year? bmarlin475 gave this response on 12/15/2001:

Dear Anonymous,

I recommend you use Mercruiser's 25W-40. My spin on synthetic oil is that it is more than twice as expensive and that with such low engine hours per year I can't see any advantage.

Why I recommend using Mercruiser brand oil is that it is formulated with additives for there engines. They spend millions of dollars a year in R&D testing components and how best to lubicate them.

Also if you have any engine warranties left and you had a engine failure, using a off brand oil or lubicate could void your warranty and leave you holding the bag and having to prove that this didn't cause the engine failure.

Hope this helps. Thanks for your question.

Good luck and safe boating...David

=====Notebook 1\narrow boats\

18:11 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I wish to try and live on a canel boat in and around oxfordshire england.

I am trying to round up information about renting a boat and also building one up myself,im looking for the right place to start .

bmarlin475 gave this response on 9/21/2000:

Josie, I answered a question not to long ago for someone looking for a narrows boat. You might give try this contact to get you going in the right direction.

"The Sea Otter is a trailable aluminum narrow boat. They are built for canal use and are built in Derbyshire, England. They look like they would be a lot of fun."

You can log on to there web site at http://www.canaljunction.com/otterboats/ or email them at otterboats@aol.com

Hope this helps. Good luck and safe boating... David

=====Notebook 1\oil changes\

17:51 Sunday, November 03, 2002

I have a 96 searay with a mercruiser I/O. A mechanic at an authorized Searay Service Center said that since I have used synthetic oil in the engine and synthetic lub fluid in the out drive last spring and only put 40 hours on the boat last year, it is not really necessary to change those this spring. He did suggest changing the oil filter and fuel filter/water separator.

Do you agree with this assessment?

bmarlin475 gave this response on 4/7/2001:

Dear Anonymous,

It probably not necessary to change the oils, but look at the oil on the dip stick. If it is slightly dirty go ahead a change it. If the boat has been sitting up for a while it can,t hurt to change it. Check condition of gear lube, top off. I normally change my crank case oil appox every 50-75 hours(or once a season). Highly recommend changing the oil filter and fuel/ water separator every season.

Good Luck and safe boating...David

=====Notebook 1\old motor parts\

16:51 Sunday, November 03, 2002

Contact Laing's Outboards. They carry many old, obsolete parts, and repair most makes and models.

Call toll free 1-800-463-9001 or at their web site http://www.laingsoutboard.com/

Or post a message with the information and the serial number on The Antique Outboard Motor Clubs web site at www.aomci.org/

Good luck and safe boating...David

=====Notebook 1\Old motors\

17:43 Sunday, November 03, 2002

i have a 1934 evinrude outboars motor..it runs fine and is in really good condition...is it worth anything and if so, how much? i bought it at a yard sale 10 years ago for $ 5.00

thanks

bmarlin475 gave this response on 5/31/2001:

Dear finessfisherman,

Try posting a message with the information and the serial number on The Antique Outboard Motor Clubs web site at www.aomci.org/

Good luck and safe boating...David

Does anyone know the