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FAQs on boat and motor repairs.
QUESTION
I'm purchasing a 19' trophy with 120 force outboard motor, I'm concerned about the motor because everyone I seem to talk to has nothing good to say about them. Can you tell me anything about them?
I also noticed on mercurys they have temp alarms. Do the Force motors also have these?
ANSWER
Bayliner, Trophy, and Force have a tough "row to hoe", but have floated through quite well and provided some great weekends for many families and fishermen.
Bayliner manufactures and sells more boats than anyone in the WORLD!
Other dealers hate them because they are considerably less expensive than the boats they carry, which attracts lots of first time boat buyers. Most dealers here won't even take a Bayliner as a trade in.
To sell cheaper, a few corners are cut; cheaper carpet, vinyl, maybe a lower grade wood, and not quality instruments.......I know the motor is not where the corners are cut.
Force, and Chrysler before that; with proper maintenance and upkeep will give you years of trouble-free service.
Your 120 Force will not outrun a 120 Johnson, Evinrude or Merc. Once you realize that; settle down to some happy boating.
Keep up the regular service and rebuild the carbs every couple years and you'll be fine.
You should have an over-heat buzzer,make sure it works and go catch some fish.
QUESTION
Please Help, I went out of town for 4 days and when I returned my 19 footer with a 150 Johnson sank at my dock. The motor was completely under water but the bow and half of the boat was still up.
I live on a salt water river and am worried about whether the boat is repairable.
What steps should I take now? Thanks in advance
ANSWER
Hi,
I have a page that covers most of the procedures to follow when confronted with a submerged motor.
Click here for the first steps to follow if your boat or motor sank .
QUESTION
Recently boat my first fishing boat. It came with a 1986 Johnson VRO 60 HP console model. It does not accelerate to high speeds quickly. It starts great, runs slow great, to medium fine, but when I open the throttle up it stalls... and will quit if I do not immediately pull the throttle back. Upon a few slow acceleration attempts it will get up to top speed. To me, based on auto experience, it seems like a fuel problem but I am new to boats an maybe it might be in the cables, just don't know. Do you have any thoughts & direction to pursue?
Also read alot about disconnecting the VRO. Why and how is it done? - Just by disconnected the oil tank and mixing the fuel at 50 to 1?
ANSWER
A few quick guesses would be high speed jets in carbs are obstructed; disassemble, clean,and rebuild carbs using new OMC carburetor kits.
This is very important as proper fuel is proper lubrication.
Fairly simple procedure; be sure to remove all jets and core plugs prior to cleaning. Check for improper float levels, and bad inner bowl gaskets, also renewed with carb kits.
Another problem may be timing advance hanging going to full throttle.
Check to see that mechanism under flywheel on starrboard side of motor is advancing all the way to rubber stop when you push throttle to full. Motor doesn't need to be running to check this. Check these few things and get back to me if you need to look elsewhere.
VRO
Disconnect your oil line at motor and cap with rubber plug and clamp, then mix oil at 50 to 1 .
If alarm sounds disconnect tan wire at VRO pump. Better yet,remove the complete VRO assembly and install A standard 3 hose OMC fuel pump to ensure proper fuel delivery, your pump is almost 15 years old now and 40 bucks gets a new one without the oil injection.
Good Luck, Wayne
QUESTION
I have a jet outboard mounted on a 16ft aluminum boat with a tunnel hull. With the motor mounted 1.5 inches high on the 25 inch transom the intake is at the top of the tunnel like it should be. Only trouble is it leaves the jet exit (the business end) out of the water at idle and on plane. My question is; does the jet need to be in the water (pushing against water instead of air) for the best propulsion? Jet skis and inboard jets are in the water. Seems like outboards with jets should be too. With a tunnel hull is the only application where it winds up out of the water. I have 1.5 inches to play with. Should I lower it? That will put jet mostly in the water. Thank You
ANSWER
I think I would try lowering it and checking performance there.
Some other options would be a set back plate which may help a lot. What brand is your boat? I may be able to help further with a little more info.
QUESTION
Can I order parts directly from your site?
ANSWER
Certainly; if you E-mail the parts dept. with your needs and we will get back to you ASAP.
To ensure that you are going to get the correct part the first time and to assist in troubleshooting for defective part replacement always include the following:
We need your model and serial number
Problem history and details:
Did the problem start all at once or over time?
Have you just purchased this motor?
Has anyone made any recent adjustments or repairs to motor?
Has motor been sitting up for a while and how long?We accept major cards, checks, and ship COD, all of which can be worked out on a person to person basis.
Our sponsors on various pages are also a great place to obtain parts and accessories.
Thanks, Broke Boats Parts Dept.
QUESTION
How would I attempt to fasten an aluminum metal box to the floor of a fiberglass boat? I may use the box as a live-well sometimes and it need to not leak water to boat. Thanks,
ANSWER
What I would do is use 3M 4200 adhesive sealer to put the box in place and seal where box goes flat against the fiberglass. It is very strong and durable.
Next, after the sealer sets up; I would sand and clean the fiberglass and aluminum all the way around and gouge each with a file or knife in a checkered pattern or whatever. I would then use Marine-Tex repair epoxy to bond together with a 3inch wide application all around.
Marine-tex bonds extremely well to aluminum and Fiber-glass.
It comes in white or aluminum-gray colors, I prefer grey.
It is a one-part to five-part epoxy and has a one hour working-time, six hour set-time, and 24 hour return-to-service-time. Doesn't sag and can be sanded when set.
Boating supply stores carry both products but read the labels first as I think they make a quick-set M-tex now that wouldn't allow time for proper application.
QUESTION
I have a 14 ft. Bayliner Jet Boat. The boat is tied for 8 months of each
year in a fresh water lake in S.C. It is trailered for the winter.
Algae
accumulates quickly on the hull during the summer and this greatly
diminishes the boats performance. I scrub the hull every couple of weeks
with a stiff brush while it is in the water but any improvement is
temporary.
I have heard that I can paint my boat with an anti fouling
paint. A product called VC 17M manufactured by International Paint Co. was
recommended to me by another boat owner.
Do you have any experience with
this or similar products?
Would this product be appropriate for my
problem? Any idea where it can be purchased and how to determine how much
I will need?
Thanks for any insight that you may be able to provide.
ANSWER
Good question and your choice of bottom anti-fouling paint bears some
research.
Most folks associate marine fouling with salt water and
barnacles etc. but as more species of foreign alage,plants,and organisms
are introduced into our local fresh water lakes the problem grows.
It
grows on your boat most of all, Ha.
I'm not familar with VC 17M but was the boat owner who reccomended it
keeping his boat in the same lake? If so and it was working for him then
it's probably a good choice.
Bottom paints are formulated for different areas and to ward off
different types of organisms.
I too, live in South Carolina, on the coast;
and for a 90 mile difference down the coast I reccomend a different paint
than I suggest locally in Charleston.
I will try to get in touch with International Paint and see what they
say. Your exact lake would probably be helpful such as Lake Marion,Lake
Moultrie,Lake Hartwell, etc. as they may have special formulas for each.
You may want to paint your bottom at beginning of next season as many
coating have a useable life that you would want to start in the spring.
Let me know which lake you're on and I'll dig up some more info.
Hope this helps, Wayne
QUESTION
Is it necessary to completely remove all barnacle residue before you apply bottom paint ?
I still have small circular impressions where they attached themselves prior to my scrapping.
ANSWER
YEP, and that's the reason everybody hates bottom painting.
You can blast them off with some mediums other than sand and not harm your gelcoat.
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