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Since the late 70s most outboards use an ignition that generates it's own voltage.

Here we'll call them Alternator Driven Ignitions or ADI for short.

These systems are basically the same but have different sporty names dreamed up to make them sound better than the competitors.


One good thing is that the color of the shorting/kill wire is fairly standard since then (see BIA wire colors).

What you are looking for is a black wire with a yellow stripe or tracer.

This wire, when connected to ground stops spark thereby cutting motor off.

This wire travels up through wiring harness to the key switch and emergency stop lanyard or kill button.

You can see or not see that a complete harness elimination is a good place to start troubleshooting.

You simply need to locate the black and yellow wire at each power pack or switch box and disconnect it from plug or terminal post.

Remember, you have just eliminated key switch so you can't cut motor off with switch if it cranks now.

You can proceed with spark test described here.

If all cylinders are now firing, then you know the problem is the switch or harness leading to switch.

If your harness has no breaks or previous splices in-line then 20 bucks will get you a new switch: Click here to get a new late model,push to choke, outboard ignition switch.

If the problem is still present, then we'll check stators, power packs, triggers, coils, and etc. Click here to continue.


Should you have a specific question you need an answer to, just E-mail meright here and I'll do my best to help. HAPPY BOATING

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