Even with the steering wheel disconnected, it is hard to pivot the engine.
Is this a bushing problem?
Can I replace the steering bushings myself?
Do I need special tools or techniques?
The manual I have does not cover this topic!
Assuming that you have un-hooked the steering link arm back at the motor and still have tight steering:
Your problem is definitely in the swivel bracket and tube area; such as swivel pin\steering arm bushing.
If your motor has been sitting up a while you might be able to resolve the problem with a little heat at the bushing area while trying to apply grease to the fittings,this often happens to motors used in salt water.
Beyond that you will have to remove the swivel pin to inspect and repair.
This is not too bad a job for the average mechanic, you will need a hoist or come-a-long to support the weight of engine.
Visit a dealer and get a copy of the parts breakdown for the swivel bracket before you start.
Otherwise I may be able to E-mail you one.
If you need any further assistance,let me know, Wayne
I had to install a new piston and ring on my 1978, 140Hp Evinrude Outboard.
A friend mentioned that I may need to "break it in".
Would you happen to know of a special procedure to do
this? Something about keeping the RPMs at a set level
for a set time...
I put a lot of work into this and I don't want to
screw it up at the last step!
Thanks for your help!
Sure, what you want to do for the first hour is to try to vary RPMs every
minute or so; don't throttle to a plane and just hold it at one speed.
You
know, just vary it up and down slightly
so rings can change position and not set in one place.
During the first hour
I would not run at WOT (wide open throttle).
During the second hour continue varying throttle and you may run WOT for a minute at a time or so occasionally during second hour.
After that you should be "good-to-go".
I would run a little extra oil
for 6 or 8 hours for good measure
(5 or 6 ounces extra for every 16 should do
fine and not foul plugs)
Hope this helps, Wayne
